An LA River Walk

Topline:

Where are we headed? This trek mixes old and new as it takes you along a scenic stretch of the L.A. River, pauses at one of Walt Disney’s old haunts on Los Feliz Boulevard and ultimately winds up on bustling Glendale Boulevard. If you go, tag us on social media @LAistOfficial and #LAistTreks

Why now? In its peak year of 1924, a staggering 109,185,650 passengers rode Los Angeles’ premier streetcar line, the Pacific Electric Red Car. Up until 1955, one of its most popular routes was from downtown to Glendale, with a stop on the east bank of the Los Angeles River. While we can’t go back in time and ride the trolley (at least, not yet), we can at least experience ephemeral reminders of its former glory in Atwater Village, a place where the past comfortably commingles with the vibrant present.

What can I expect? This is an easy trek, nearly all flat, paved sidewalks. About 2.5 miles in all, and it’s dog friendly. And when you’re finished, you have several dining options to enjoy, including Proof Bakery, Dune (known for Mediterranean fare), the popular Hugo’s Tacos, and Holy Basil, which is considered one of the best Thai places in L.A. If yo are traveling with dog, you might also consider the Morrison Restaurant, which touts its dog-friendly patio.

What’s next: Let’s get walking!

Welcome to LAist City Treks, a series of easy hikes and walks that will help you explore the parts of Los Angeles and SoCal we rarely get to see — or only see through the car window. Expect to get about 5K steps, and plenty of photos for your social media channels. Keep scrolling, because you’ll also find recommendations for grabbing a quick bite to eat once you’re finished.

Where are we headed?

Why now?

In its peak year of 1924, a staggering 109,185,650 passengers rode Los Angeles’ premier streetcar line, the Pacific Electric Red Car. Up until 1955, one of its most popular routes was from downtown to Glendale, with a stop on the east bank of the Los Angeles River.

While we can’t go back in time and ride the trolley (at least, not yet), we can at least experience ephemeral reminders of its former glory in Atwater Village, a place where the past comfortably commingles with the vibrant present.

Quickly, what can I expect?

Route conditions: Nearly all flat, paved sidewalks and walkways (with the option to detour on unpaved trails at Sunnynook River Park)|Difficulty: An easy 1 on a scale of 1 to 5|Distance: About 2.5 miles, with the option to add on more if desired|Dog friendly: Yes, and you’ll walk by the Morrison Restaurant which touts its dog-friendly patio.|Parking: Street parking, free|Bathrooms: Several opportunities to stop in at businesses along the way, so you might want bring a few singles to tip in exchange for using the facilities.

Map it!

OK, let’s get started …

Nostalgia is a funny thing. Many Angelenos — myself included — were not even alive during the Red Car era, yet we pine for the trolley’s re-emergence. As Southern California Railway Museum puts it, Los Angeles was home to America’s largest electric railway system, “blanketing the Los Angeles region with more than 1,000 miles of rail lines.”

This loop through Atwater Village kicks off at Red River Park, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sliver of green just east of the Glendale-Hyperion Bridge where the Red Car once crossed over to the center median of Glendale Boulevard.

It leads to a 430-foot-long pedestrian and cycling bridge over the L.A. River, reinforcing the adage “what’s old is new.” After the last train rumbled over the river, the tracks were ripped up, leaving behind several concrete stanchions protruding from the water.

Forlorn and purposeless, the pillars got a new lease on life when the Red Car Bridge, upon which you will tread as you walk across it, was laid over them in 2020. The viaduct’s decorative red stripes are a winking tribute to the erstwhile trolleys.

After you step off the bridge, being mindful of cyclists, turn right on the L.A. River bicycle path. The river factors into Atwater’s etymology: When it was subdivided in 1902, the tract was advertised as “at-water.” You’ll pass under the Glendale-Hyperion Bridge, a 13-arch work of art designed by Merrill Butler in 1927.

Up ahead, Sunnynook River Park emerges on your left. Pause if you like to stroll its paths of restored native vegetation along the bike path. The park’s riparian trees are in keeping with the Glendale Narrows, the name given to an 11-mile stretch through Northeast L.A. While much of the L.A. River is encased in concrete, this section boasts a natural soft bottom, much to the delight of the herons and egrets who feast on fish (and to you, who delight in herons and egrets).

Once you’ve taken in the park, you’ll cross back over the river via an older pedestrian bridge. Officially called the Sunnynook Bridge, it’s better known as the Love Lock Bridge. You’ll find dozens of locks fastened to the fencing. It’s a place for soulmates to solidify their love, minus the potential regret of lifelong tattoos!

When you step off this pedestrian bridge, turn left and continue on the river’s walkway.

Then, exit and turn right onto Los Feliz Boulevard.

The next few blocks feature mom-and-pop stores and two iconic theme establishments — Bigfoot Lodge and the Tam O’Shanter.

Occupying the corner of Los Feliz and Boyce Avenue since 1922, the Tam was designed by Harry Oliver, an Oscar-nominated art director who also took on non-studio clients. Oliver was a leading architect of the Storybook style. As the name implies, its structures were defined by crooked windows, pitched roofs, and whimsical flourishes—think Hansel and Gretel’s fairy tale house, or the real-life “Witch’s House” in Beverly Hills (also designed by Oliver).

If you look closely, you can still see Walt Disney’s fingerprints at the Tam.

The original Disney studio was just over the river in Silver Lake. Walt Disney himself (and his animators) frequented the roadhouse so often that the Tam was the de facto studio commissary. In fact, Disney’s legacy is well-preserved in the lobby of Tam O’Shanter’s.

Sketches of Mickey Mouse and his gang hang on the walls, including one drawn by Walt himself. (Book a dinner reservation for later: A plaque memorializes Walt’s favorite table — the much-sought-after Table 31, near the fireplace.)

One could see how the restaurant appealed to Walt. How much so is debatable, but there are clear parallels between the Tam and the whole Village Haus portion of Disneyland’s Fantasyland. A more direct link is the Hyperion-Glendale Bridge near this route’s trailhead, and which led to Disney’s studio back in the day: A replica of it extends over Buena Vista Street at Disney California Adventure.

After checking out the Tam, regroup back at the intersection of Los Feliz Boulevard and Boyce Avenue. You want to head south on Boyce Avenue. (Don’t know which direction is south? As you walked up Los Feliz Boulevard and came upon the Tam, you’d turn right onto Boyce Avenue. So do that.)

Then, make your first right, onto Dover Street, and then take your second left, onto Edenhurst Avenue.

Why this zig-zag route?

It takes you through the heart of Atwater’s residential district, where you can enjoy some of the prettiest homes around. Deodar cedar trees provide ample shade as you take in an array of architectural styles dominated by 1920s Spanish-style bungalows, perfectly suited for the village’s relatively small lots.

Six blocks later, you’ll find yourself at Glendale Boulevard, whose wide center median once served the Red Car tracks that ran through here.

Fortunately, Atwater’s main drag has staved off the type of decline that has gutted other L.A. business districts, thanks to its diverse and creative community, strong neighborhood pride, and a good mix of essential and trendy retailers that appeals to both locals and outsiders.

Here, you have a decision to make. You can turn right onto Glendale Boulevard and make your way back to your car.

Or, you can browse Glendale Boulevard’s many boutiques, or languish in a neighborhood bar or bistro. We have a few dining recommendations below. Heck, Red Car River Park took some 50 years to come into being; what’s a few more minutes as it awaits your return?

Done! Where to eat?

LAist’s Associate Editor for Food and Culture Gab Chabrán recommends the following four places in the area to grab a bite:

Hugo’s Tacos

Tacos — soft or crispy — are so popular here at Hugo’s. You might almost forget everything else that’s on the menu, including burritos, protein bowls and quesadillas. And then there’s the torta ahogada, served on a Mexican sandwich roll layered with beans, guac, your protein choice, veggies, and then griddled in a honey chipotle dressing.

Dune

Dune is known for its Mediterranean breakfasts — avocado toast with tomato confit on Bub and Grandma’s sourdough — and fried chicken shawarma, as well as lavish meze plates made for sharing.

Proof Bakery

Proof Bakery is a slice of carb heaven. And it has plenty for those with a savory tooth as well as a sweet tooth. In additional to favorites such as croissants and fruit danishes, scones, and coffee cakes, there are also sandwiches, too, including a focaccia BLT.

Holy Basil

Considered to be some of the best Thai food in L.A. But Holy Basil is really all about chef Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat’s channeling of Thai flavors and Chinese influences into something uniquely original. The “Grandma’s fish and rice” — the chef’s beloved dish from childhood — is a favorite.

Where to next?

Any suggestions for great hikes in and around L.A.? Don’t keep it to yourself! Let us know, and we might check them out for a future story.

Haddad is the author of the hiking bible 10,000 Steps A Day in LA and the upcoming Inventing Paradise: The Power Brokers Who Created the Dream of Los Angeles. Read more about Haddad here.